Fish in my backyard

My watery backyard

My watery backyard

I have enjoyed water all my life.  My happiness has always been the greatest when there is some water close by our home.

Often it hasn’t mattered whether it was a stream, pond or an ocean.  Sometimes just being able to see water has been enough to keep me going.

When I was growing up in Lewisville, NC, a small creek down in the woods behind the house helped keep me happy most of the time.  Even then there were times when I needed more water.

My mother used to drive my friend, Mike, and me to my uncle Henry’s fishing ponds across the county line in Yadkin County.  We were left there at very young age, but we were very responsible kids and both strong swimmers.  We could fish a whole day and not say a lot.  Neither us ever fell in one of the ponds.  We were too busy fishing to horse around with each other.

After college, I moved to Nova Scotia to fulfill an itch to be close to the land.  I got an old farm on a hillside that had a wonderful view and frontage on the Bay of Fundy.  I could eat breakfast and look at the water.

On our farm in New Brunswick, we had a small pond and a trout creek at the back of the farm.

Later when we move back to the states and lived on a mountain overlooking Roanoke, Va., I would often hoist our two person kayak on the roof of our little limo (a Nissan Axxess)  and head off to Carvin’s Cove for some fishing.

Still I had a dream of living by the water.  In 2006, after looking for over three years, we found a place in Bluewater Cove on Raymond’s Gut just off the White Oak River.

In September of that year we moved into our home which definitely has water behind the house. The water leads to the White Oak River, Swansboro Harbor, the ICW, Bogue Inlet, and eventually the Atlantic Ocean.  Not long after moving, I officially declared the White Oak my backyard.

I got a new one person kayak in the fall of 2006, and in June 2007, we got our 20 ft. Sundance skiff  which I gave the unofficial name of “Living the Dream.”  Since then we have fished the area with varying degrees of success.  We have had some great fishing trips, and I have even caught fish off of our dock with my fly rod, but I always felt that to really enjoy living where we do, I had to learn more about fishing the river.

This past February, the North Carolina Sportsman magazine published an article about fishing hotspots in the Swansboro, NC area.   I bought one, and when I turned through the pages, I was not very surprised to see our deck in the distant background of what was called the croaker hole in the article.  It was a spot that we had successfully fished often.

I haven’t fished a lot in 2011, but this fall as the opportunities to fish have presented themselves, I have been focused on using artificial bait and staying close to home on the White Oak.  Most of the fall I carried a rod with me when I went out in the kayak or skiff.  I just didn’t catch much of anything, but often I was only out a few minutes.

Earlier this second week of November 2011, the waters began to really cool, and my luck started to change.  I caught a bluefish from our skiff while drift fishing the croaker hole near the red sixteen buoy which we can see from the Bluewater Cove dock.  That was all I caught in the few minutes that I fished, but I did think about naming him “the bluefish of happiness.”  One fish is not a lot to rave about, but I caught him with in sight of our house.

The next day, the weather was even nicer, so I decided to head out and fish the oyster rocks in the middle of the river near our home.  It is something that is hard to do in anything but a kayak since the water depth is very shallow as you can see from this picture.

I had only been fishing a few minutes when I caught a nice bluefish.  In a few more minutes, I landed a really nice trout between fifteen and sixteen inches in length.  No long after that I caught a smaller trout just a little over twelve inches long.  I fished for a while more, but I didn’t get any more taps as they call trout bites.  That was okay, it was my best kayak fishing trip of this year.

As I have said before, fish are optional when you are fishing in such great weather in surroundings that are hard to describe with words, but it is nice to catch one once in a while, and it is even better if you catch it in your backyard.

I am looking forward to the rest of the fall, I think that I might have my touch back.

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A Warm Late Oct. Afternoon Excursion to the Beach

Warm Oct. Afternoon on the Beach

Warm Oct. Afternoon on the Beach

There is really no way that those of us on North Carolina’s Crystal Coast can complain about this fall’s weather.  We have endured a couple of chilly evenings, but for the most part, our fall weather has been stellar.  We have hardly had any clouds in the sky.

However, even here near the beach, cool weather has to start showing its chilly face eventually.  As someone who “closely” follows the weather in a number of places, I was aware that a cold front was scheduled to visit our area on Friday, October 28.   With that deadline in mind, I decided to head over to the Point at Emerald Isle on Thursday afternoon, October 27.

I have lost count of how many times that I have walked the Point this year, but I did not want to miss what might be our last day on the beach in 2011 when the temperature made it to 80F. There is nothing like walking the beach in the fall and wading in the still warm ocean water.  I really dread the time when I have to switch to bluejeans for my beach walks.

As I walk the beach in the fall, I like to fish a little, even if I don’t catch anything.  With fishing as part of my excursion, my outfit is carefully considered even down to the things that I take with me.

I don’t leave home without my fishing hat even though I am careful about putting on sunblock.  Mostly it protects my balding head without me getting sunscreen in my hair.  More importantly,  I have a waterproof case for my tiny clip wallet and a couple of cords that I hook to the case.  One cord has a multipurpose fishing tool, and the other has a tape measure and my fishing license in a waterproof plastic card holder.  My cell phone goes around my neck in another waterproof case which has a slightly different multi-tool attached to it.

In my back pocket is a small plastic fishing tackle box with a few lucky lures.  In my right pocket  goes my small Sony HX7V camera.  Below that pocket there is another zipper pocket for my truck keys.    I usually wear my ancient LL Bean’s sunglasses that have a reader section built into the lenses.  The lenses make tying knots in fishing line a lot easier.

If the weather is nice as it was on Oct. 27, then my Nikon 3100 with a telephoto lens will also be around my neck. You never know when the opportunity for a great bird picture might present itself.  A microfiber hand cloth and a light spinning rod complete the outfit.  I’m fairly sure that I scare most fish away as soon as I arrive on the scene, but I do get some good pictures.

Everything that could be damaged by water is in a waterproof case because I inevitably end up getting wet.  That is also the main reason that I wear a bathing suit on my excursions during the fall and summer.  This year after hitting over 100 miles hiking on the beach,  I settled on Crocs as my footwear.   On my long hikes, I typically end up walking in some silty areas where I would rather not put my bare feet which are normally perfectly happy on most of the beach.

On my October 27 excursion, I parked at the Station St. parking lot just off Coast Guard Road about 3 PM and started my hike to beach.  I didn’t get very far when a car stopped to ask me about finding a place to fish which didn’t require a lot of walking.  I guess he figured anyone looking as much like a beach bum as me had to be a local.  He seemed to be under the impression that you could park at the Coast Guard Station and fish there.  I corrected that illusion and gave him directions to Third St. Beach.  Then I continued on my journey.

I walked onto the beach from the Wyndtree Drive access public access point and headed west along the low tide line. Hitting the beach at around 3 PM meant that I arrived there at low tide.  The beach over at the Point continues to change with each visit.  It is almost a full time job keeping up with the changes there, but it makes for a topic that interests a lot of folks.  I am not an expert, but the tide over at the Point seemed lower than I had seen in a while.

The body of water that I have called the Emerald Isle community swimming pool  seemed to be gone.  There was little evidence of the swimming area where I had seen it on some of my earlier trips.   A little farther down the beach there was some indication of a little water not far from where it used to be, and then I ran into this area where I am guessing the the pool moved.   I’ll have to make another trip when the tide isn’t so low to see how much of a swimming pool remains and exactly where it has moved.

Walking west from there, I found some of the folks who fish the beach from their trucks parked on a sand ledge  which was actually a long way from the water.  It was almost like they were expecting the water to come to their trucks. Most of the truck fisherman don’t do a lot of walking.

As I got closer to the actual Point, I could see there were a few trucks down on the beach.  There were a lot of changes in the beach as I rounded the Point and headed north.

There was an impressive part of Bogue Inlet not under water.  I walked out and took this picture looking back towards the homes along the Point.

Then I walked down to what is called Coast Guard Island and continued along the north side of what is end of Coast Guard Channel.    The tide was so low that the remnants of Coast Guard Channel were split in two.  I took this picture at the head of the northernmost channel.

Looking back west towards Bogue Inlet made for a great photograph.  Next I walked up to the edge of the dunes and took this picture looking across Coast Guard Island towards the Emerald Isle Bridge.  There was an amazing amount of bait in the northern channel, but my few casts there did not raise any fish.

If you look closely in this photo, you can see the peninsula that the low tide gave us on Oct. 27.  This picture was taken looking east down the edge of the northern side of  Coast Guard Channel.  Here is a picture of the low tide peninsula between the two channels.  Finally this a shot from the same area looking back towards Bogue Inlet.

I had a great time wading around in the water and exploring some new sand.  I took the GPS track from my Droid and used an image editing program to fill in sand where it actually is based on my exploration.  While my hand edited map is by no means exact, it beats the Google map which has me doing a lot of walking on water.  The blue line is the 3.8 mile track that I walked at the Point on October 27.

You can see a lot more pictures of my journey at this Picasa web album.  I have my fingers crossed for another 80F day when I can once again put my strange uniform on and have another adventure.

If you think great October weather at the beach is rare, you should check out this album which I uploaded on October 10 last year.  I still remember the wedding party standing out in the surf.

As a side note no fish were harmed in the research for this post.  In fact none were caught by me, and I only saw one small fish put in a cooler during the whole hike.

 

 

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The view from the water

Marsh edges from my kayak

Marsh edges from my kayak

Most often when people talk about scenic views, they have in mind large scenes like this view from the bridge across Bogue Sound at Emerald Isle.  In fact I have written about how wonderful scenery like that can stretch the mind.

However, there is another, more intimate way of looking at our area that can be even more powerful in changing your perspective of the coast.  I doubt that I will ever forget my first kayaking adventure on our coastal river, the White Oak back in 2006.   Before that trip I was a veteran of many kayaking trips to Carvin’s Cove in the Roanoke, Va. area.   Those did not prepare me for sitting on water that is nearly two miles wide.

Actually it isn’t just the large views that making sitting on the coastal river water so special.  The small nooks and little places along the edges of the marshy shores are among my favorite spots. Then there is the fun of actually taking a trip on the river in a kayak to a place like Jones Island near Swansboro.

With a tidal river and the winds that are often prevalent here on the coast, it is rare that a round trip ends up being the same route each way.  If you look at this trip to Jones Island that I did earlier in the spring, you can see that on my return trip I had to make adjustments to compensate for tide and winds.  It took forty-five minutes of paddling each way, but the effort required was different for each leg of the journey.

Of course the water on a big river can get challenging fast, but with experience, even choppy water is relatively easy to handle.  I would not want to try kayaking in 20 mph or greater winds, but I have done plenty of kayaking in 10-15 mph winds.  While it looks a little scary when the wind is blowing, it actually isn’t that bad.

Even in conditions like the the linked YouTube video, the safety valve is to quickly paddle to a more protected section of the river.  Within a few minutes of taking that choppy water video, I paddled back into Raymond’s Gut at Bluewater Cove and took this video of me being gently pushed by the wind back to our dock.  The day before I took another video while gliding in the inlet and listening to birds.

The experience and views that you get sitting on the water in a kayak is totally different that what you might get from a tall bridge or flying down the river in skiff.

If you haven’t had a chance to explore our coastal rivers by kayak, it really is an opportunity that you should not miss.

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Fish are optional

Water near the Point at Emerald IsleOctober is typically one of our nicest months here on North Carolina’s Southern Outer Banks.  The air has lost some of its heat and humidity but the water is still warm.

For those of us who love to fish, October can be the time when we hit some home runs.  I have had some memorable fishing trips in the month of October.  In 2009, a fishing friend and I had an amazing afternoon with the bluefish around Bogue Inlet.  In 2005, I probably had the best half day of fishing in my life near Beaufort Inlet.  Both those trips were in late October.

With a hot summer that made fishing challenging, most of us fishermen and our female equivalents have anxiously been awaiting the fall fishing season.  Actually we have been trying to rush it along.  I did a little fishing early in the morning in late September, but the water temperature was near eighty degrees, and the fish still were not biting.   I considered those efforts scouting trips.

Even over on the ocean at Third Street Beach, it still felt like summer as September turned into October.  As the first week of October really got going, I received a call from a mountain top friend who really wanted to catch some spots.  In fact he was so eager to fish that he drove a few hours  straight to our place and hopped in my boat for an afternoon fishing trip.

Dedication like that is the sign of a true fisherman.  Anyone who will drive to the Crystal Coast and go fishing without even stopping for lunch is serious about fishing.  My friend and I fished a couple of afternoons, and he did catch a few spots.  However,  I caught only one blowfish for the two afternoons.  Neither my friend nor I were upset about the lack of fish.

It is always easy to come up with excuses for not catching many fish.  In my case, I am not a very dedicated bait fisherman.  I would much rather catch a fish on an artificial lure of some sort.  Both of my most memorable fishing trips revolved around a single lure on each trip.  No other bait was involved.

It takes very little to get me to stop fishing with bait and start fishing with lures.  I am also known for ignoring what is happening regarding fish if I happen to get distracted by a good picture that needs taking.  It is not unusual for me to be caught completely ignoring fish  and snapping pictures.  I almost lost a rod and reel over on Third Street because of that recently.  I was bottom fishing with one outfit in a sand spike and had wandered off casting with a lure and taking pictures when I just noticed a large wave knocking my pole over. I managed to catch it on the next incoming wave.

When I am really serious about fishing, I usually carry one rod and in my back pocket is a small plastic box with a few lures.  That is all the tackle that I take.  I do take two cameras though.

Most of the time fish are actually optional for me, but I truly love to stand in the water and fish, and that is exactly what I did on the afternoon of October 7, 2011.  I first tried Third Street beach, but the currents were too strong so I headed down to the Point. This is a movie of the beautiful waters that afternoon.

After my hike down to the beach and out the vehicle ramp,  I fished the south side and west end of Coast Guard Channel.  Then I walked over and hit the shore just north of the Point.  I got to enjoy some birds swirling in the air just before I got to the beach.

Once over on the shore I headed back along the beach and enjoyed the impressive waves along the south side of the beach.  I didn’t start fishing until I got just in front of the little hook of sand that makes the Point area so interesting for fishermen and even swimmers.

I had been in and out of the water all afternoon so wading into it one more time was not a problem.  It only took me a minute to adjust to the water temperature. I worked the water pretty well, but I didn’t raise any fish.

If I had been really serious about catching fish, I would have probably moved on or changed lures.  However, the location, the view, and the weather were close to perfect so I just stood there fishing the same water with little expectation of catching a fish.  The moment was perfect even without catching a fish. I stayed so long that I felt the need to call home and apologize for being a little later than I had promised.  Fortunately my wife knows me well and had already planned on me being late.

You can see some views of my fishing spot at this photo album.  I will be posting more photos there after I get my weekend chores completed.  My trip to the Point didn’t produce any fish for me, but it was spectacular afternoon on the water.  It was a real treat.  I will take an afternoon with no fish in the surf by myself over a day of sitting among the spot yachts any time.

The truth is that I throw back most of the fish that I catch anyway.    Fishing is a sport of patience instead of immediate gratification anyway.  If you keep fishing , you will eventually have some of those memorable moments.  You cannot catch a fish without your line being in the water so this time of year, I try to stick it in the water whenever I am near water.

I had some recent fun fishing in my kayak.  I even caught a fish,  which was nothing to brag ab0ut, but I ‘m hoping that it is a sign of things to come.  The sunsets that I have seen while fishing in my kayak will stick with me longer than the memory of the fish that I threw back.

I will be back out on the water the first chance that I get, but I won’t be disappointed if I come home empty handed.

The scenery and the water are all that I need.  Fish are definitely optional

 

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Where you live does matter

The shores of Emerald Isle

The shores of Emerald Isle

Living in the midst of great natural beauty does make a difference in your life.   I don’t have a hard time making that statement.

All I have to do is let my mind wander back to the days when I used to make account calls in Washington, DC.  The memories needed to transport me back to an early morning commute on Interstate 66 are not hidden very deeply.

Life is very different living in what I often call a coastal paradise.  Whether we are able to live here for a few short years or for the next decade doesn’t really matter.  This area has already had a profound impact on the way that I view the world.

Watching the cycle of life that the area nourished by the area beaches and marshes provides a far different perspective than a morning commute to DC on Interstate 66.

The life force that we see along the shores takes many forms. The tiny fish jumping behind our house and the fiddler crabs filling the muddy banks are all part of life in the marsh.  That I can quite figure out what the fiddlers or shore birds are eating most of the time doesn’t matter.  This morning I stood in the back door of our garage and watched a great egret calmly grab a small fish from a tiny marsh pond.  I didn’t feel sorry for the fish since being eaten is part of living along the edges of the marsh if you are a small creature.

The shrimp, fiddler crabs, and bait fish all provide nourishment for other creatures as diverse as flounder to red drum and bottle nosed dolphins.  If something dies and sinks to the bottom, the blue crabs are there to recycle it.  The cycle never stops, just like the marsh grass never stops waving in the wind.

On the beach it is easy to lose yourself in the endless march of waves.  Just as creatures live and die in the marsh, the waves are continually moving sand and the life that goes with it from one place to another. Sea creatures wash ashore and the shore birds clean them up.  When a storm and its waves take sand, it is just part of the cycle where some beaches grow at the expense of others.

Being an observer of the natural cycles here along the coast helps you to understand where you fit in the world. It is easy to figure out that the marsh grass will be growing long after we are gone. Also the waves won’t stop moving sand just because we are no longer walking on the beach.

It is reassuring knowing that in spite of all human interference, the marsh grass is still growing here along the sounds and rivers.   At the same time the  wave and wind driven sand keep reminding us that we only can use the land as long as the land allows us that privilege.

When in a city crisscrossed with roads and filled with huge buildings, we humans sometimes feel invincible.   The invincibility disappears here on the edges of the marsh.  A storm like Irene can bring huge changes to the marshes or the impact can be little noticed.  Still you don’t have to drive far to see the power of nature.

Disaster has to strike a city for people to understand what we see on a daily basis.

Living with the knowledge that if you end up falling in the marsh, the blue crabs won’t discriminate against you gives life a little different perspective.

Maybe that knowledge that you are easily recycled takes just a bit off the edge of human arrogance that so prevalent in large cities.

Here in the marshes near the beaches, the big picture often has blue skies, lots of water, and an ocean breeze.  The view here provides warmth, life, and the knowledge that the cycle will continue with or without us.

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Never the same place

Waves at Third Street Beach

Waves at Third Street Beach

It is surprising that I know folks who live here not far from the beach and never manage to make it over to the sandy shore.  I am the opposite extreme.  I can hardly stay away, and I am always looking for an excuse to “go over to the beach.”

One of the reasons that I love going to the beach, is that even if you go to the same strip of sand, it is always a slightly different experience.  The sand might be fluffed up more or maybe there are just a bunch of new shells on the beach.  Of course the slope of the sand is always changing.

I went over to Emerald Isle’s 3rd Street Beach Thursday, September 22.  It was late in the afternoon, and we watched a storm building offshore.  The surf was actually pretty calm, and I wished that I had remembered to bring a fishing rod.

In lieu of fishing, I walked down to the surf, watched the tiny bait fish glittering on the surface of the waves, and made a YouTube video of the scene. The video turned out nicely, and you can actually see the silver flecks of the bait fish on the surface of the water if you look closely.

The trip whetted my appetite for a little fishing.  On September 23, the weather looked pretty wet for the later part of the afternoon, but not bad around noon.  The tide situation wasn’t too bad so I decided to gamble on a quick fishing trip.  The trip isn’t bad from our house near the White Oak River, and I managed to walk down to the surf just before noon.  My truck was the only vehicle in the parking lot.

There was only one group of three people relaxing in beach chairs, but otherwise the beach was empty.  It only took me about three seconds to realize that the conditions were completely different than they were the day before.  The waves were somewhat larger, and most importantly, there were no shore birds feeding on the tiny bait fish like there were on September 22.

The shore also had a lot more medium sized shells.  As I stood in the surf it was obvious that things were different at my favorite beach.  Of course standing in the surf fishing even when the fish aren’t there or perhaps not biting still beats doing almost anything else, so I stayed for an hour and enjoyed the waves crashing around my feet.

With larger waves and more current, the fishing was destined to be an exercise in futility, but the water felt so good that I hardly moved from the spot.

Time goes quickly on a beach even when you aren’t catching any fish.  Half the time I am fishing with one hand and taking pictures with the other so I stay busy one way or the other.

Sometimes the photograph I catch is worth the trip anyway.  The one at the top of the post isn’t the only good one from the trip, but it does do a reasonable job of making it easy to imagine the water swirling around your feet.  It might be useful this coming winter when I need a dose of fall to remind me that we live in paradise here along the Southern Outer Banks. Click on it or this link for an enlarged view.

And I don’t mind if our paradise keeps changing a little.

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Walking between Irene, Katia, and Maria

Hiking on the Point at Emerald Isle, NC

Hiking on the Point at Emerald Isle, NC

The Point at Emerald isle, NC is about as dynamic a piece of sand as you can find within walking distance of a parking place along the east coast.  I feel fortunate that it is less than fifteen minutes from my house to those few parking places near the Point.

One of my great memories from my youth is coming to fish on the Point with my Uncle Austin. I think it was the summer of 1969 we came down to the area in my old lime green Bronco.  We had to drive several miles down the beach to get to the Point, but I can still remember my Uncle teaching me how to drive on sand.  We didn’t catch very much, but as most fishermen will tell you, it doesn’t take fish to make a great memory.

Today I approach the Point from a different perspective.  It is a very unique spot with spectacular scenery along the Southern Outer Banks which has a whole gallery of great natural beauty. The Point is a place that I go when I want to be close to the elements. While I was pleased that our area survived Hurricane Irene with little damage, I was both concerned and excited to see what happened over on the Point.  I haven’t been disappointed.

I long ago subscribed to the view that sand is going to move where the tides and wind take it in spite of man’s delaying tactics.  The Point is a great a great laboratory. You can see sand move and change almost daily. There aren’t many places on earth where you can be one of the first people to walk on new land.

While my estimate of several acres of new sand is awaiting verification from the real surveyors of the beach, it is obvious to anyone who is familiar to the area that change is the norm at the Point, and that Irene brought lots of change.   As long as change doesn’t destroy the Point, I enjoy it for whatever it is when I walk there. Irene actually made the Point even more interesting.

With Irene’s visit, there is even more of a difference between walking at high tide and walking at high tide.  The slope of the beach seems even shallower after Irene’s visit.  You notice it especially when we have a big storm off the coast sending huge swells to the area.   When I made my second trip after Hurricane Irene on September 7, I noticed a number of places that had been over-washed that day.  If I hadn’t known better, I would have guessed that Coast Guard Island might have been back on the way to becoming an island.  However, I knew that we were getting some high tides along with swells from Katia.

One of the neatest things is to find newly deposited sand while hiking.  Sometimes it is dropped in layers.  You’ll be hiking along and think that you are about to step into some deep soft wet sand only to find that you’re actually stepping into two inches of new sand that has been deposited on a very solid base.  You can see the layers very well in some of the new cuts that were made in what I call the cliffs of Emerald Isle.

The real surprise is how few people really explore the Point.  Like most beaches people tend to congregate around the spots closest to the parking.  Once you walk around the actual Point, which I define as the most westerly spot on the island, you will find very few walkers.  Eventually you run into people who have beached their boats on the backside of Coast Guard Island, but it is rare to run into more people that you can count on your fingers when you start walking north along the edge of Bogue Inlet.  I guess the hike it too long.

We’re lucky to live in area protected on the backside by Croatan National Forest’s 158,000 acres and one flank by the 56 miles of the Cape Lookout National Seashore. It doesn’t hurt to have Cape Lejeune on our other flank.  While there are still plenty of pastures and fields to be developed, I don’t think there is much chance of the Southern Outer Banks ever becoming another Myrtle Beach.  I am glad of that.  Just the possibility might keep me awake at night.

I would hate to live in an area where there is no room for changing sands.

If you are interested in visiting the area, check out my “Welcome to the Beach” page.

Pictures taken on my September 7 hike to the Point.

 

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Cape Carteret & Emerald Isle Survived Hurricane Irene

Emerald Isle Beaches survive Irene

On Friday, August 27, Hurricane Irene paid us a visit with the outer bands of rain first starting around 5 PM that afternoon.

The storm’s winds were howling well before we went to bed that evening.  Irene continued to pound us all day Saturday.  Only at 5 PM on Saturday did I venture out to start our generator as the winds slowed and the rain finally started to back off.

While I have no accurate way of measuring the winds, from my experience, I would judge our winds in the 75-80 MPH range.  Our power went out at 11 AM on Saturday.  We had somewhere between eleven and fifteen inches of rain, but our power was back on by 1 AM Sunday just fourteen hours after we lost it.  I never took my boat off my side pole lift where it was secured to my pickup truck and bulkhead.

Sunday evening we had an ice cream cone at the Sweet Spot on Emerald Isle about seven miles from our house.  Monday, I walked over 5.3 miles on the beaches at the Point on Emerald Isle and marveled at the additional twelve to fifteen acres of sand that Irene added to the beach there.

Other than the destruction of some well loved bottle trees at a remote local beach, the  worst damage I saw in the area was the shed roof of Winberry’s Produce peeled back, a boat with a tree across it, some missing siding, and shingles.

But the headlines of the national newspapers and the evening news are all about the devastation and flooding that Irene caused in New Jersey, New York, and Vermont.

How is it that an area only 33 miles from where Irene made landfall escaped with only minor damage?

Some of it is luck, but there are also elements of topography, hydrology, history, location, planning, and preparation that are part of the story.

A little background will make things clearer.

In my mind’s eye I can still see the water up to the axles of the car as my mother drove us away from Hurricane Hazel in 1954.  I was five years old then, and 57 years later it is still a vivid memory.  That day we retreated to our home in Lewisville, a small town outside Winston-Salem located in the relative safety of North Carolina’s Piedmont area.

With that memory still stuck in my head, it is something of a wonder that in 2004, my wife, Glenda, and I started looking for a home along the east coast.  We looked as far north as Assateague on Virginia’s eastern shore, and as far south as Oak Island, just south of Wilmington.

In deciding where to live, we carried with us a lot of experience gathered over the years.  Our lives have covered much of the east coast.  I lived for sixteen years in the Canadian Maritimes.  Glenda was there for fourteen years. Part of our time in Canada was on the shores of the Bay of Fundy where extreme weather often seemed like the norm rather than the exception.  I know that during my time on the Bay of Fundy, I saw winds approaching 100 miles per hours because the foam from the bay often blew the mile or so inland and froze around the power lines near our 200 year old home.

We also spent over twenty years in Roanoke, Virginia on the side of a mountain.  Winds of sixty to seventy miles per hour were not uncommon at our mountain home in Virginia.  We also got a taste of hurricanes in Roanoke.  Hurricane Hugo welcomed us to Roanoke in September 1989 when it crashed a tree into the screen porch of our new home just before closing.  Living in Roanoke also taught us that eleven or twelve inches of rain could make mountain valleys deadly.  Many times we saw the main road in Roanoke, Route 419, flooded by heavy rain storms often spawned by the remnants of hurricanes as they approached the Blue Ridge mountains.

While I did a lot of studying of maps and hurricane tracks when picking our next home, one of the most influential factors which helped our decision to move to western Carteret County was the presence of old buildings both in Swansboro and Beaufort dating back to the 1700s.  My research showed that hurricanes, like Hurricane Donna in 1960, sometimes visit the area, but I also discovered that the area offers a degree of protection from hurricanes. To start with Carteret County goes downhill from west to east. The farther east you live in Carteret County, the closer to sea level you are.

Most people have a picture in their minds of barrier islands as a narrow strand of sand. Fortunately there are serious barrier islands like Emerald Isle.  Emerald Isle at the western end between us and the Atlantic is far different from the northern Outer Banks and Route 12 north of Buxton.  Emerald Isle is heavily treed and is a substantial island.  Living in Bluewater Cove up the White Oak River north of Emerald Isle is far different from living in Rodanthe or South Nags Head.

A few years living on the Bay Fundy in Nova Scotia is a good life lesson.  Those years imprinted exactly what happens when a large body of water get forced into a narrow space. There is nothing like tides of twenty-eight feet to get that principle across.  Our Bay of Fundy experience was one reason we ruled out living up a bay with a huge of expanse of water in front of us.  When the wind starts blowing that water, it has to go someplace even if that place is around your house. If a large body of water like Pamilico Sound has nothing between it and your doorstep, there is a good chance you will find it on your doorstep one day.  New Bern and Oriental are good cases in point.

Still we wanted to live on the water and knew that our decision would likely put us in a floodplain.   However, one really good thing about living in North Carolina, is that the state has been dealing with hurricanes for years.  Homes are built to some serious standards, and I felt comfortable living in a new home that was built to sit above the 100 year flooding like our home does.

However, until you live in a home, and it is tested, you really don’t know what to expect.  On September 30, 2010, we had an amazing 20.25 inches of rain at our home in less than 8 hours.  While the moisture was widespread and impacted the whole drainage area of the White Oak River, we came through the situation fine.  The water just got to the top of our dock, and when the tide started going out, the water went out while the torrential rain continued for another four hours.  There is some benefit to having a two-mile wide tidal river as a drain.

Still our 2010 event had no wind so we had not experienced any wind greater than 35-45 MPH while living in Carteret County.  With that in mind, we prepared meticulously for Hurricane Irene.  All our outside furniture was either moved inside or tied with bungee cords to the deck railing.  We bought a generator to add to the emergency supplies we had collected over the years.  We stockpiled some food, water, and basic necessities and waited for Irene’s impact.

Irene turned out to be a really good test.  Skip Waters, one of the local weathermen, said that Irene was one of the worst if not the worst storm he had seen in his 29 years in the area. While he had seen storms with more wind or rain, none lasted as long and had the combination of wind that wouldn’t stop and rain that kept pouring down.

As these flood pictures show, our home was in no danger as it is several feet above the level of our dock.  The water was also lower than what we saw in the event in 2010.  While I was sorry to see some places that we had considered as home locations flood, I was pleased not to be there when they flooded.

There is a little magic on being on a tidal river with a couple of bridges constricting its entrance. Our river is a short one with lots of marshes to absorb water and a watershed area that is relatively small.  We also have no cities on the White Oak, and there is huge area of marsh behind Emerald Isle and between us and the Atlantic Ocean.  Because of the way our house is situated, our worst winds are from the southwest.  We mostly got east and north winds from Irene.

I am also very thankful for the long term planning of Carteret-Craven Electric Cooperative.   Being only a couple of miles from their impressive power poles likely had something to do with our power being restored so quickly.

Of course the next time around, Mother Nature could deal more severely with us, but for now we are pleased that our prayers were answered.  It certainly didn’t hurt that we were well prepared.

As we continue to hear of areas without power or still flooded, I am happy to report that beyond a few trees downed and some limbs pruned from standing trees, there was little or no damage in our neighborhood.  One neighbor did have a tree fall across his boat and total it.

Still I would just as soon not be tested with another hurricane this year.  As the news picture I saw recently of a  family sitting on the steps of their destroyed 1903 Albemarle Sound cottage showed, what Mother Nature spares one year can be quickly taken another time.  It is a price you pay for living in an area of amazing natural splendor.

Beyond knowing that Mother Nature always has the upper hand,  I will continue to be vigilant while enjoying this spectacularly beautiful area.  I believe the risks of living here are well worth what we get in return.  Irene even added a lot of sand to beaches over by the Point on Emerald Isle.  You can follow my hike (ignore the out of date Google aerial photo which indicates I can walk on water) at this link.  I also posted a lot of pictures of my hike at this Picasa web albums site.

For people looking for damage photos, there are almost none from this area.

 

 

 

 

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Waiting for Irene

Swansboro Harbor seen from ICW

Swansboro Harbor seen from ICW

After living here on the North Carolina coast for five years, we are finally faced with a serious hurricane.

Just how close Hurricane Irene will pass from our area won’t be known until later this week.  At our home, we are about as prepared as we can be at this point.  There are some things that we won’t do until we have a better idea of how close Irene will come to the area.

We will decide whether or not to bungee down the deck furniture on Friday. At that time I will also decide how much extra gas to buy for the generator.  I will probably also get a cooler full of ice on Friday in case we just have a short term power outage.  We already have all our emergency supplies.  I also won’t tie down the boat and put it on storm footing until the last moment since I hope to keep monitoring the water at least in the river until the last moment.

When we selected our home in June of 2006, we considered a lot of things, and how a hurricane might impact our area was one of them.  When we started our home search, we consider a number of spots on the east coast from Assateague Island on Virginia’s eastern shore to Oak Island south of Wilmington.

Included in the places we evaluated were Hatteras Island, Nags Head, and Ocracoke Island.  Those three spots had been some of our favorite vacation spots, but when we tried to imagine ourselves living that far out in the ocean, we just couldn’t do it.  We’ve lived in the South long enough to know how often the Outer Banks have been evacuated.

One of my earliest memories as a child is my mother driving us away from Nags Head as a storm approached.  I can still remember the tires of the car in deep water.

If you have spent significant time on North Carolina’s coast, you know the land varies widely along the barrier islands.  There are places like Canadian Hole near Buxton and Emerald Isle near Third Street Beach where the strands of sand are very narrow. There are also places like Hatteras Island and portions of Emerald Isle where the islands have dense vegetation.  Emerald Isle also has hills and some high ground.

I actually feel pretty good with the wide part of Emerald Isle between us and the Atlantic Ocean.  While there is no doubt that water can surge up the White Oak, it is somewhat constricted by the bridges in Swansboro and the causeway in Cedar Point.  The river also widens after the bridges.  In the three miles to Bluewater Cove, the river grows to nearly two miles in width.  From looking at flood maps it appears that historically flooding has been worse up the river where it once again starts to narrow.

However, since we live on a tidal river, a lot depends on when Irene visits us.  It looks now like Irene will pass closest to us around 8 AM on Saturday morning if the forecast issued early on Thursday morning is correct.   We will have an outgoing tide as Irene departs.  With a potential of four to six inches of rain and a surge of around three feet, we are likely to see water over the top of our dock like we saw on September 30 of last year.

The good news is that when the tide goes out on a two mile wide river, the water goes down.  We saw that happen on September 30 last year when we got 20.25 inches of rain in less than eight hours.  While it rained very hard for another four hours after the water got over my dock, the water started dropping as soon as the tide started going out.  I am counting on that happening again, but we will have to see what happens.

Irene looks like she is going to give a number of cities north of us lots of trouble.  Accuweather has provided an interesting table that showed forecast impacts for major US cities.

Certainly as you look at the picture in the post of Swansboro Harbor taken the morning of August 24 or this sunset picture take around 8PM the same day, you would guess that a hurricane is on the horizon.  We did see one person putting up plywood for storm shutters.

I am thankful that we have lots of weather people to warn us when storms take aim at the coast.  I can only imagine how difficult it must have been to prepare for a storm that you didn’t even know existed.

There will be more reports here on preparation for Irene in the coming days.

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Beautiful morning in the Cove

Nice morning in Bluewater Cove

Nice morning in Bluewater Cove

Finally we are back to some normal weather.  August 15, we got up to a 68F morning temperature.  The first thing that I did was go upstairs and throw some windows open to catch the early morning breeze.

When I headed out on my morning walk around the boardwalk here in Bluewater Cove, it was impossible not to notice the change in the air.  I don’t know how long it will last, but the muggy air of the last few weeks seems to have disappeared.

Temperatures in the sixties will do a lot for us.  First our late season tomato plants can finally set some fruit.  Next it will cool off the area waters, and bring back some of our favorite fish.  There is already evidence of that.  This morning there were schools of bait swimming around our docks.  They have been absent in the recent heat.

My morning walk was hard to beat with a full moon over the cove and a light breeze coming from the northwest.  The moon was even reflected in the water.  I could tell from looking through my telephoto lens that the breeze was much stronger out on the White Oak River.

I also got to see two kingfishers engaged in a dogfight (birdfight?) over the water.   By watching closely I figured out where one of them landed and managed to get a pretty good picture of him considering the long distance of the shot.

When I came back to the house, I even convinced myself that the tomato plants looked happier after their rain bath from yesterday and this morning’s cool temperatures.

All in all it was a great morning walk and a fine way to start the day.  Likely when I get back from my morning appointment, I will take the boat our for a spin if the winds don’t get worse.

First it is time to pick some more tomatoes and try to sneak them in the house while my wife isn’t looking.

As a side note, on August 14, I updated my PDF map of the area.  It has a list of recommended restaurants.  After a meal last week that I would like to forget, I dropped one well known local restaurant from my list.   The food was so poorly cooked that I was felt the need to cook my own flounder dinner on Saturday night August 13.  Jimmy over at Clyde’s suggested we take home the six pound monster that was on ice at the counter, but we settled for one that was just shy of two pounds.

You can download the PDF and try to figure out which restaurant I dropped at my Welcome to the Beach page.

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