Icy, Snowy Morning at Our Dock
On the afternoon of December 23, 2017, our outside temperature peaked at seventy degrees Fahrenheit. We were hosting a Christmas party, but I ended up dressed for the weather with shorts and t-shirt.
Since then we have gotten a dose of winter weather unlike any that we have experienced since we moved down here in September 2006. I can look back fondly at our first winter when we recorded only 19 hours of below freezing temperatures for the whole winter.
I can assure you that we got more cold hours than that today, Friday, January 5, 2018. We might have gotten to 34 degrees between two and three PM. Tomorrow and Sunday are even worse. The temperatures are not expected to get above freezing.
We are not strangers to some cold weather or ice and even a little taste of snow, but this is beach country. Most of us are here because we love the water but are not so fond of frozen precipitation. The last measurable snow before our January 2018 snowfall of four inches was seven years earlier in January 2011. That was a normal storm for us. The snow came, we enjoyed it for a few hours and it disappeared. This current storm has staying power.
This snow while not significant by northern standards came Wednesday night and likely will be around until Monday when the temperature is finally going to make it above freezing. Because this is a Southern snow, it quickly turned to ice wherever it was driven over. This ice would be a challenge to some of the best snow removal crews, but many of us at the coast live in areas without any snow removal equipment. We are just going to have to wait for the snow and ice to melt.
Fortunately, we are not being sentenced to a true Northern winter that extends into April. We are just getting a tiny but extended taste of it. Next week our high temperatures are in the mid-fifties and we do not even get below freezing. By Friday we can look forward to a high temperature of sixty-four Fahrenheit.
With the warm temperatures, this snow and cold will just be a fading memory. Unfortunately, we will have to live with the after effects of the cold temperatures which have dropped as low as ten degrees Fahrenheit. The trout season is closed until summer because of the cold stun which is no surprise given that the water temperature of the sound and river are down to thirty-four degrees. Many of our plants are not used to weather this cold so we could be replacing plants this summer.
Let us hope it is another seven years before we see any additional snow. I am counting on it being a few decades before we see cold this severe again. I had more than my share of snow in my sixteen years in Canada and I am happy to no longer start my day with snow shoveling. Naturally, I will be happy to see the snow go, but it did make for some pretty pictures. This Snowy January 2018 is a link to an online album of pictures taken near our home just off the White Oak River, a few miles from the beaches of Emerald Isle and the coastal charm of Swansboro.
If you need a break from serious winter, I hope our cold weather will be over soon. Wait a week or two and give the Crystal Coast and the beaches of Emerald Isle a try. You will find lots of guidance on having a great time here in Emerald Isle in our book, A Week at the Beach – The Emerald Isle Travel Guide. The 2017-18 print editions were just published on August 15 and are Prime eligible at Amazon. the Kindle version went live on September 20. If you are in Emerald Isle, you can pick up a black and white copy at Emerald Isle Books and Toys in Emerald Plantation. The Emerald Isle Town Office carries the color version.
The sign-up form the Crystal Coast Life Email Newsletter is below. Our last newsletter went out just before the middle of October. This is a link to A Balmy Beginning To Fall, our October 2017 edition of the newsletter. I should have another newsletter out before the middle of January.
Fall Afternoon in Raymond’s Gut
On December 1, 2016, in my post, Life by the Waters of the White Oak, I wrote “Our temperatures were well into the seventies on this year’s first day of December.” Here we are a year later and we have enjoyed an even nicer fall.
At our dock, three miles up the White Oak from Swansboro, the temperature hit 70F on December 5, 2017. Wearing shorts and t-shirt I spread mulch and put down pine straw for a few hours. I never got cold. The weather has been great for the last month or so. We only got three-quarters of an inch of rain during November. There has been no killing frost at our place as of December 6.
Yesterday, we picked green beans and the last of our tomatoes. Over the weekend I picked most of our pepper crop. Earlier last week, I pulled out most of our persistent tomatoes. We have enjoyed a ripe tomato from our plants every month for the last sixteen months and we have some green ones that will likely carry us into January. We can give the homegrown tomatoes a few-months break.
The weather forecast for the next few days paints a different picture for us. It has highs in the upper forties and some lows in the lower thirties. There is a chance that we might even get a frost. A winter day on the Crystal Coast is one when we barely get over fifty Fahrenheit.
However, this change to cooler temperatures is not like that first snow in Canada which comes in November and potentially hides the ground for the next six months. This is North Carolina’s Crystal Coast and we spend a lot more time thinking about beaches and warm waters than we do about snow. Summer in October is pretty standard, some beach weather is normal in November, and shorts weather is not that unusal in December. January beach days are not out of the realm of possibility here.
Living by the water tempers our weather and we take advantage of it whether in summer or winter. I usually take a few boat rides in December. Winter as we know it gives us some great opportunities to enjoy the natural paradise around us. We might see some frozen water but it will likely not be until January. Then we only have to live through February before thoughts of spring can provide some welcome relief and even the opportunity for wading in the water on a warm day.
If you need a break from serious winter, give the Crystal Coast and the beaches of Emerald Isle a try. You will find lots of guidance on having a great time here in Emerald Isle in our book, A Week at the Beach – The Emerald Isle Travel Guide. The 2017-18 print editions were just published on August 15 and are Prime eligible at Amazon. the Kindle version went live on September 20. If you are in Emerald Isle, you can pick up a black and white copy at Emerald Isle Books and Toys in Emerald Plantation. The Emerald Isle Town Office carries the color version.
The sign-up form the Crystal Coast Life Email Newsletter is below. Our last newsletter went out just before the middle of October. This is a link to A Balmy Beginning To Fall, our October 2017 edition of the newsletter. I should have another newsletter out before the middle of January. Happy Holidays!
Once every year or so I end up writing about beach evenings. The reason is a simple. I have many pleasant memories of beach evenings here on the North Carolina coast. I was fortunate as a child. Even though my mother was a single parent, she managed to carve out a couple of weeks each summer when we took a vacation. Being true North Carolinians, we either went to the mountains or the beach. I remember the beach winning about three quarters of the time.
Mother would pile whatever nieces and me that would fit in her old 1953 Ford and off we would go to the beach. Somehow she found the time to pack a picnic lunch of fried chicken and country ham biscuits and there would be a cooler full of Coca-Cola. The roads were all two lanes but she never failed to get us there safely. She was a better driver than many men. The beach cottages we found were always simple and a few blocks off the beach but it was still heaven to a car full of kids from the North Carolina Piedmont.
There were tomato sandwiches for lunch and at least a couple of seafood dinners out during the week. Most memorable were those long evening walks on the beach. Some nights were perfect beach evenings. As I wrote in my post, A Beach Evening, in June 2014. You have to feel a beach evening.
You are more likely to walk outside and feel a beach evening than you are to know that it is outside waiting for you. A beach evening is more about the air and breeze than it is about how it looks outside. You can go outside in the complete dark and know by how the air feels on your skin that it is great evening to be at the coast.
When you have a beach evening, you feel embraced by the warm, moist air. Maybe it is a tropical evening with a touch less heat but the warmth is crucial to the sense of comfort that makes you wish that your time outside might never end.
A couple of nights ago I was out enjoying a late night walk and it slowly dawned on me that I had stumbled into a perfect beach evening. There was no shortage of warmth but I was not hot. The air was moving and it smelled of the beach. The humidity was not overpowering and except for walking on a street among pine streets, I could easily have been on the beach in the mid-fifties in Nags Head. The walk brought back lots of great memories of trying to keep up with my teenage cousins along the dark sand dunes and crashing surf of those long ago trips.
A couple of weeks ago I met a couple from Nags Head on an evening walk at Third Street Beach. I asked them why people who lived at the beach had driven the three hours or so to our beaches. The husband quickly replied that Nags Head had gotten so crowded that it was hard to enjoy his hometown beach. It reminded me of how blessed we are to live in a beach area that is not over crowded. With some luck I might get in a walk on the beach this evening. From past experiences I know that the beach will have few people even with this being the week of July 4.
It is good that there are still some beaches where you can have your own space and hear the waves if you choose to do so. It is nice that there is room for families, fishermen, and even our canine friends. While it might seem a little crowded on the streets of Emerald Isle, it is unlikely that you will have trouble making a left turn. Someone will stop and let you make that turn or even let you into the line of traffic if you are waiting. That is just the way it is here on the Crystal Coast where the family beach is still alive and well and you just might find a few perfect beach evenings to enjoy our remarkable shores. Do not be surprised if you see more stars in the sky than you ever have.
If you need some guidance on having a great time here in Emerald Isle, please remember to check out our book, A Week at the Beach – The Emerald Isle Travel Guide. The 2017 edition should be out before the end of July.
The sign-up form the Crystal Coast Life Email Newsletter is below. The next edition will be out later in July. The most recent edition can be read at this link.
It has been over two months since I have written a post on my Crystal Coast Life website. It happens ever now and then that you just need a break from writing even if writing is something that you enjoy very much. If there is a good time for some time off from writing, it is winter and if there is a good place to restore yourself, it is the marshes along the North Carolina coast. I am back now and refreshed from the break and hopeful that we are seeing the last vestiges of winter.
The winter of 2016-17 has been an easy one so far in the Raymond’s Gut marsh on the edges of the White Oak River. We had one serious cold spell from January 7 to Jan 10. We experienced 15F, the lowest temperature in our ten plus years on the Crystal Coast. Fortunately for those of us along the coast there was no frozen precipitation to go along with the very cold temperatures.
Winter brought our usual cast of characters including our most famous visitor, Frank 29X and a new friend, an otter who has been named Emmet. Frank 29X is a great egret born in Canada who first visited the Raymond’s Gut marsh in December 2012. He is a true snow bird with his trips south each winter. He has not missed a winter since 2012 and is somewhat famous in birding circles. Emmet is a young river otter who seems to have developed a fondness for our marsh. There was one stretch when he was around for almost two weeks. I am guessing that Emmet is one of the otters that were born here in the marsh last year. The marsh did get iced over during our one cold spell but that is long gone and the duration of our cold spells is shorter and shorter as we get closer to spring.
As winter slowly releases us to spring, we can still expect some cold nights but often the brilliant North Carolina sun can make you forget about cold temperatures well before 10AM. Winter winds often linger and become spring breezes which given the length of time that it takes for the waters to warm up are only marginally warmer than the cold winter winds. It does not take much to change the quiet inlet in the post picture to a wind whipped inlet.
Another part of winter that takes a long time to change is the reddish brown of our mostly centipede lawns. This area by our boardwalk is green in the summer but stays brown until April usually. While it is not unusual to see green grass in central North Carolina in early March, it takes much longer for our brown centipede lawns to turn green. If you see green grass at the coast early in the spring, it is likely that someone over-seeded their centipede yard with annual rye grass. We actually hope the centipede grass does not turn green until into April. A late March frost can turn a centipede yard brown and it has to start greening up all over.
The roller coaster weather that we have on the coast also keeps our area waters which were cooled by the winter’s cold temperatures from warming up quickly. Cool water temperatures are the most maddening vestiges of winter. The warm days of spring often tease us but experience has taught us that the beautiful waters of spring are often deadly cold. We might end up being lucky this year with the water temperatures already in the mid-fifties, but I am not counting on it yet.
All it takes is for the northern half of the country to be snow covered and for those cold north winds to sweep across the fields of snow to keep our spring damp and cool. Still we know that spring is drawing nearer by the day. We have already picked up almost an hour of daylight. Our daffodils have responded with beautiful blooms. And in what might be a surprise to many people our wagon train tomatoes are still producing ripe tomatoes. We already have tomato seeds planted and it will not be long before we are planting cold tolerant plants.
It will take a while for those last vestiges of winter, the brown centipede grass, the cold winds, and cold water to disappear but we are on the downward slope to better weather. We will soon be thinking about spring festivals and walks along the beach.
Our most recent Crystal Coast newsletter, Paddling Into The Holidays, was sent out on November 17. The previous one before that was Back to the Beach, which was emailed out on September 12.
Our books are especially useful if you are planning a visit to the Crystal Coast in 2017.
The sign-up form the Crystal Coast Life Email Newsletter is below. The first newsletter of the new year is late but should be out late in the week after Valentine’s today. It will just in time to provide information on the first spring festivals.
The White Oak River
Another November has come and gone and somehow I am not surprised that once again the weather has been unpredictable but beautiful. That this fall has been yet another great coastal fall is undeniable.
The nearly perfect weather has been an interesting contrast to the cold weather of November 2014 when we saw temperatures drop to 24F and the high for one day only reach 42F. We got through November 2016 without a killing frost along the edges of Raymond’s Gut. The narrow channel of Raymond’s Gut runs behind our home and out to the White Oak River. It is a great place to garden, fish, and enjoy life. That is especially true when we have more than our fair share of summer-like fall days that have been the gift of November 2016. Our temperatures were well into the seventies on this year’s first day of December.
Fall 2016 unlike last year has been dry since early October. Hurricane Matthew dumped three inches of rain on western Carteret County on October 8. In the almost eight weeks since then we have only received 1.72 inches of precipitation. November 2015 was much wetter. We got 7.1 inches of rain just on November 19, 2015. On December 2, 2015 our rain total since June 1 stood at 59.4 inches. This year with a total of just 40.2 inches precipitation since June 1, 2016, we are over nineteen inches behind last year’s total. No one is complaining. It is the first time in a while that we had a chance to thoroughly dry out.
Variable weather comes with living along the coast. When water is at your doorstep there are some benefits like later frosts and extended spring weather. Each year the waters are slow to cool in the fall and sometimes not so quick to warm in the spring. We are also on the doorstep of a huge weather machine that often spawns storms just off our coast. We sometimes either get brushed by storms or watch them spin up and head north to clobber New England or the Canadian Maritimes.
Life along the water has other benefits. The cast of characters that frequent our marsh is entertaining to say the least. An early morning walk along the marsh is hardly complete without seeing some kingfishers swooping along the surface of the water. Sometimes we watch them capture a meal and proceed to tenderize it by pounding it on a piling. It is not unusual to see loons and otters and of course lots of ducks from mallards to mergansers. Our most famous visitor is Frank 29X, the great egret from Canada, who first visited the Raymond’s Gut marsh in December 2012. If Frank makes it back this year, it will be his fifth straight year to visit Raymond’s Gut.
This photo album taken during the winter of 2013 provides lots of bird and creature pictures along with shots from my kayak trips. More water and some beach shots can be found in this fall 2014 album. With great Crystal Coast weather, the choice of what to do is only limited by your free hours. Now that we are into December my kayaking will be much more limited with few if any more trips to the center of the river as the water cools. December 1, would have been a great day for a beach hike but we were scheduled during our too-short December daylight hours.
A body of water like Raymond’s Gut which stretches from the White Oak into the marsh is like a watery game trail and those of us living by it have ringside seats. Beyond the gut there is the superhighway of the White Oak River where anything from bottle nosed dolphin to blue crabs and a shark is possible. It is hard to believe that I took our skiff down the river almost a week ago and I was still wearing my standard uniform of shorts. On that trip we saw kingfishers, great egrets and a great blue heron.
We are blessed to live by waters that delight us with a new window into the natural world each day. If you ever have a chance to park yourself along the water for a few years or even months, do not miss the opportunity. It is a wonderful way to watch the seasons pass. We have seen things from our kitchen window that some folks will never have a chance to see. How many people have seen a great egret stand down a great blue heron, a great blue heron go ice skating or an otter eating fish like a Popsicle? You cannot ask for a better place to appreciate our natural world than the shores of a place like Raymond’s Gut.
There will still be some warm days here on the coast, so come for a visit and enjoy the weather while it holds winter at bay. For each warm day you can enjoy, you banish one day of winter and life seems just a little bit brighter. Turning our backs on winter is a favorite game for those of us who live here. We like to cheat winter as much as we can.
Our most recent Crystal Coast newsletter, Paddling Into The Holidays, was sent out on November 17. The previous one before that was Back to the Beach, which was emailed out on September 12.
Our books make great Christmas presents especially if you are planning a visit to the Crystal Coast in 2017.
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Pardon us for flapping our wings a little. Matthew has come and gone from the east coast. The Crystal Coast area did very well. However, the effects of the storm are still being felt inland on the North Carolina coastal plain. Historic flooding will take place in a few localities during this second week in October. Even Interstate 95 is still closed three days after Mathew left the area. There are still power outages as far north as Virginia Beach. South along the coasts that stretch from here to through Florida, people are cleaning up after a strong storm that did a tremendous amount of damage.
As with every storm there are lessons to be learned. The first is that we all need to be humble before storms like Matthew. The closest you can come to outsmarting a storm is being well prepared and if necessary, getting far out of its way.
No matter how many storms you have endured, a big one coming up the coast makes everyone who has any sense nervous. Personally I obsess over the track even with my knowledge that the size of the wind field and rain shield can can turn even a near miss into an almost direct hit and cause great damage.
I follow the hurricanes headed toward us with as many tools as I can find. There are plenty of good online tools today. I use Storm Pulse mostly and add data that I pick up from the National Weather Service. Even when a storm looks like it might miss us, we go forward with preparations until we are well out of the cone of uncertainty. There are so many factors for a particular location that it is unlikely any weather forecaster can provide exactly the right advice for our specific location. A lot of the knowledge you need to survive comes from living through some storms. The factors vary from the timing of the tides to wind directions and how protected a location is from wind coming from a certain angle. The direction of hurricane winds change as the storm moves through an area. Of course we all live in fear of being just to the right of a strong hurricane’s track.
Hurricane Matthew’s track came within about 50 miles of our location just off the White Oak River. The White Oak is a big wide river as you can see from this drone picture taken near our home. Home looks a long way off when you are in the middle of the a huge river in your tiny kayak. Raymond’s Gut which is our water route to the White Oak curves back a little as it gets to our house. The geography of Raymond’s Gut and how it intersects the river offers us some protection from storms.
There are some other good things about being on a big wide, coastal river that is not far from the ocean. Our location just three miles up river from the mouth at Swansboro means that heavy rains do not have far to flow. The White Oak River with a length of only 36 miles does not drain a tremendous area which is also a good thing when it comes to flooding. Our river is also tidal so when the tide turns some water, usually two feet of it, disappears.
We are lucky to have the very well treed Bogue Banks between us and the Atlantic Ocean. There is no way to be perfectly secure on the coast when it comes to hurricanes, but we have found our current location has been a safe haven over the last ten plus years. We stayed through all of Hurricane Irene and its punishing wind and rains. Hurricane Sandy was not much of an event here. Hurricane Matthew brought us very manageable winds and only two inches of rain. In the fall of 2015 we lived through some of the epic rains that almost swamped South Carolina. In September 2010, we even survived a strange summer downpour that dropped over 20 inches of rain on us in eight hours. None of those events brought water even close to the homes in our neighborhood. Our home is only 25 feet from the water and thankfully the water has never even gotten over our bulkhead
While the flooding water from Hurricane Matthew looks impressive covering our boardwalk, the water was gone four hours later as the tide dropped. This picture taken the next morning shows how quickly things were back to normal.
Part of staying sane with a hurricane coming is to be prepared. We got cash from the ATM on Wednesday and filled both cars with gas. The same day I took our skiff down the river to make sure it was working. I started our generator last Thursday. We got some extra water and canned food. We checked our emergency radio, all batteries and flashlights. On Friday before the rains, we moved lots of things inside or tied them down. On Saturday I raised the boat on the lift to high water stage and got a couple of coolers of ice. We were ready to fill our 5 gallon water jug if things started looking bad. When power starts flickering, our routine is to put items that we might need the next day in the cooler so we won’t have to open the fridge. If the power is off for several hours, we put the generator out on the patio and power a few things in the house including the refrigerator. Both our phones were fully charged and we talked about the papers that we needed to take with us if we decided to leave.
We were ready for Matthew but fortunately we got to spend a comfortable night at home in spite of some pretty serious and noisy winds very early Sunday morning. We never lost power and during our trip our for lunch in Morehead City we only saw a couple of power trucks working. Atlantic Beach lost power but Emerald Isle did not. A measure of the few power incidents in our area is that we saw a TV truck filming the one broken pole we noticed in Cedar Point. Some of our “good luck” is due to the giant power poles used by Carteret-Craven Electric and their efforts to keep our power right of ways free of dangerous limbs and trees.
You cannot hide from Hurricanes, but you can pay attention to history and pick a place that has survived a few storms. I know that just because we have not been hit directly does not mean that we will not get a storm with a perfect track to cause us damage. I remain hopefully that being a few miles inland with a very big tidal drain beside us means that we are relatively safe. Even so we always wrestle with the stay or go problem. Hurricane Matthew confirms what we have seen before. If you do leave, you are likely to have a hard time getting back because of inland flooding. Still if a Category three storm looks like it is headed to our area, we will likely head for the hills.
If you can find some roads that are not flooded, this is a great time of year to visit. There are certainly no crowds. By the middle of October most of the flooding should be gone. Just watch the weather and pick some nice days to really enjoy the fall treat of visiting the Crystal Coast. I took this beach picture Sunday afternoon, just after Hurricane Matthew had passed the Crystal Coast.
You can check out the Town of Emerald Isle Report on Matthew for another perspective of Matthew’s impacts.
If you need help planning your visit to the Crystal Coast, you are in luck. Our five-star-rated travel guide, A Week at the Beach – The Emerald Isle Travel Guide, can help turn your vacation into a truly memorable one.. Even if you have been here a number of times, I have some secrets to share about the area beaches. This is a recent review published in Island Review by the owner of the Books and Toys Shop at Emerald Plantation.
The Kindle version of the travel guide is $3.99 but it is free if you have Kindle Unlimited. The Kindle version includes over 100 pictures and extras such as printable maps and a few of our recipes. Our completely updated 2016 version went live in late May. Amazon also has the full color, 142 page 2016 paperback version for $19.99 and it is prime eligible. There is a black and white version available for $7.95. In order to make the paperbacks more affordable, we limited the pictures to sixty-six and the maps to nine. There are no recipes in the paperbacks. However, if you buy one of the paperbacks from Amazon, the Amazon matchbook program will let you get the Kindle version for only $1.99. If you want to purchase books locally in Emerald Isle, the Emerald Isle Town Office sells both versions and the black and white ones are also available at Emerald Isle Books and Toys in Emerald Plantation. Color copies are $20 and black and white ones are $8.
Our last newsletter, Back to the Beach, went out on September 12. The one before that was August Warmth. We hope to have our next newsletter out around Halloween.
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